ASU FIDM Museum in LA showcases costume designs from 'A Complete Unknown'

Visiting the exhibition “A Complete Unknown: Design Behind the Scenes” at the ASU FIDM Museum feels like stepping inside director James Mangold’s Bob Dylan biopic starring Timothée Chalamet and Monica Barbaro (currently in theaters). The film depicts the early years of Dylan’s career, charting his ascension from obscurity to folk music star and culminating in his controversial decision to “go electric” at the Newport Folk Music Festival in 1965.

The exhibition, on view through Jan. 18, celebrates the work of Academy Award-nominated costume designer Arianne Phillips and features over 30 costumes shown in an immersive environment with guitars, banjos, microphones, recording equipment and various other props featured in the film. Through the addition of large-scale film stills, the gallery walls are transformed into the major locations seen in the film such as The Gaslight Cafe, Bob and Sylvie’s Greenwich Village apartment and the stage of the Newport Folk Music Festival. The collaborative nature of filmmaking is emphasized in the exhibition by including both the heavily researched and carefully constructed costumes and the images of the sets created by production designer François Audouy. Together their work brings the film to life. This exhibition not only showcases the meticulous artistry behind costume and production design but also highlights the crucial role these elements play in storytelling, offering an invaluable perspective for students and visitors alike.

“It was thrilling to have the opportunity to conceptualize an exhibition of the costumes from ‘A Complete Unknown’ with the collaboration of my cohorts, Production Designer François Audouy and Hair Designer Jaime Leigh McIntosh,” Phillips said. “Working together, we revisited our storytelling process, going back through the research and our process designing the film knowing we would be creating an immersive experience that would hopefully inspire and engage not only the public, but the students. It is not every day we get the opportunity to revisit our work once production has wrapped and reimagine it for the public to experience in person.”

Arranged chronologically, the exhibition begins with costumes from the early 1960s, when a young Dylan, clad in loose Levi’s paired with button-down shirts, arrives in New York City eager to meet his heroes in the folk music scene. As Dylan’s fame increases, you can see the subtle changes to his wardrobe: the addition of suede jackets, the more tailored look of the jeans. By the end of the exhibition (and the film), Chalamet, as Dylan, is wearing a Mod-style: sleek blazers and narrow trousers. The museum team worked directly with Phillips to match the styling of the costumes to the film as closely as possible. Often this meant ensuring that the clothing had the proper lived-in look that Dylan favored during this time period.

Last week the ASU FIDM Museum and Shelter PR hosted an opening reception for the show, which was attended by Phillips, Audouy, Barbaro and Mangold, along with assistant designers, set decorators, prop managers and many others that worked on the film as well as other industry professionals and ASU supporters.

By bringing together the worlds of fashion and film, “A Complete Unknown” exemplifies ASU FIDM Museum’s dedication to fostering creativity and collaboration across disciplines. This commitment extends to LA-based fashion and film students at ASU FIDM and The Sidney Poitier New American Film School, both part of the Herberger Institute for Design and the Arts. This exhibition not only celebrates excellence in design but also serves as a bridge between students and industry professionals, providing a dynamic space for inspiration, learning and dialogue. Aligned with the mission of the Herberger Institute, it underscores ASU's dedication to preparing students for careers in the heart of the cultural and creative industries.

The exhibition is on view through Saturday, Jan. 18. Visit asufidmmuseum.asu.edu/exhibitions for details. 

This story was written by Christina Frank, ASU FIDM Museum curator.